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| The Alps of the North West, Skagit River |
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THE NORTH CASCADES
The North Cascades, also known as the Alps of the West, thrust dramatically up to the heavens. Some peaks reaching
9,000 feet, but most reach three to six thousand feet. Mt. Index, Whitehorse Mountain, Glacier Peak, Mt. Baker are some of the largest and most well known.
Some have glaciers thousands of years old and at times receive world record snowfall (Mt. Baker 1998/1999). On a lesser known peak the massive snowfall forms two separate river systems.
High atop Monte Cristo Peak, the snow falls gently on a knife edge ridge. Destined to melt into pristine emerald water’s. To the south, the North fork Skykomish. To the north, the South fork of the Sauk.
As the snow melts its trasnformed back into a liquide form drop by drop. These drops come together and merge totransform it into trickles. These trickles meet and form the streams and creeks that tumble and plunge down the steep and rugged west slopes of the North Cascades. They transform from a swift and dangerous torrent to the meandering farmlands below.
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| Skykomish River and Baring MT. |
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SKYKOMISH RIVER
The Skykomish starts high up in the Henry M. Jackson Wilderness and the Alpine Lakes Wilderness areas. From these areas the water pours out into the north and south forks of the Skykomish. Both of these rivers are jewels, but are as different as the two rivers can be.
The North fork plunges fast and steeply down one of the most beautiful valleys in Washington, while the South fork is more gentle on its path, but has its own hazards and beauty.
From the forks to Gold Bar is what I call the canyon stretch. Steep gradient with huge rocks, this is the kayaker’s playground with rapids up to class IV and V. Check out boulder drop and you’ll understand what big rocks look like!
From Gold Bar to Monroe the gradient eases and the big gravel bars appear. From the forks to the farmlands there is so much water to flyfish that you’ll need decades to figure it out. Or you can hire me for a day or two to accelerate your learning curve.
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| The Skagit River |
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SKAGIT RIVER
The Skagit River is the largest river in the North Cascades. Its headwaters originate in British Columbia. Unfortunately the Skagit has three dams. Gorge, Diablo and Ross dams and their respective lakes. Ross Dam forms Ross Lake, one of the largest reservoirs in Washington and it extends up into BC.
Then there’s Diablo Dam forming Diablo Lake. Gorge dam and lake is the last one. All three lakes are extremely beautiful with spectacular views along Hwy 20.
After the dams the river is free flowing. Add in Bacon Creek, the Cascade River and the Sauk River and you have a huge and immense river. When the Sauk blows out the Skagit will usually be clear because of the dams. Enabling one to fish when other rivers are out.
Although the Skagit is a huge river the Steelhead can site quite close to shore some times. The spey rod is still the right choice because most of the time you’re under the trees or right up against the bank. There are open gravel bars along the Skagit but there far and few between.
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| The Sauk River |
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SAUK RIVER
The Sauk is the Skagit’s largest tributary and one of the most beautiful rivers in Washington. With some of the most beautiful steelhead that you’ll ever see! The Sauk’s NF & SF headwaters are in the Henry M Jackson Wilderness. The Sauk’s two largest tributaries originate in the Glacier Peak Wilderness area.
The Suiattle and White Chuck rivers both originate from Glacier Peak. A dormant volcano of 10,541 feet,with multiple glaciers and ice sheets. Resulting in some serious silt, glacier till or flower. High air temps and heavy rain can really cloud up the Sauk. Every flood changes the Sauk, constantly on the move you never know what’s been changed. Chinook, Coho, Pink and Chum Salmon as well the Dolly/Bull Trout call the Sauk home. But the real treasure is the Spring Steelhead, that’s what I dream about. From late February to April large aggressive fresh fish move in on every rise of water. On every cast and swing of you’re fly, there’s a chance to hook into a monster.
Late April I was fishing a favorite run. Stepping cautiously around the large boulders I was transfixed with the raw beauty of a fine spring afternoon. WHAAAMMM !!! My rod tip slams the water. I raise my rod tip to 9 o’clock and the tip on my 14’ 9wt slams to the water again. Three or four more head shakes happen so fast I’m in shock. Then nothing, that fish snapped 15lb Maxima on just the head shakes!! I’m shaking right now just thinking about it. If I could have just seen it, just held it. Man what a fish it must have been. Brand new, not a nick in it 15lb Maxima!! Oh well that’s what’s so wonderful about Steelhead, the ones that get away are just as special!
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| MT, Olympus and the Hoh River |
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THE OLYMPIC PENINSULA
The Olympic Peninsula Rivers are born of glacial melt and rain forest mists, (more like DELUGE). The glistening hanging moss dripping with the water of ages past, partitions the sunlight into millions of crystalline reflections. Every once in while the ever suspended mist, (more like DELUGE) parts long enough to catch a glimpse of MT. Olympus and all her glaciers. The massive Cedars reaching into the clouds matched in awe only by the mighty Sitka Spruce and the moss draped Maples shrouds the rest of the mountains. One must be diligent to look back up river to snatch a fleeting moment to memory, ever watchful for that Elk crossing the river, the majestic Bald Eagle soaring high up with clouds or the playful Otters scurrying along the river, when SLAM!!! Your rod doubles over to the throbbing pulse that haunts your dreams and soul! Time stands still as a chrome rocket twists and ungulates slinging water from its flanks, the droplets hanging suspended in a time warp beyond imagination…Breathe
This ghostly entity surges and your reel screams a long transcending song, echoing a sound of unbridled power and strength resonating in your heart. Breathe…. the fish slows and for a moment you have control, (or so you think) racing out of the shallows this white hot ghost tries for the ocean a few miles away. Breathe…. with the battle over you reach to grab her tail, all hell breaks loose at first touch, as this creature born of the wild has never been handled before. You think you have control but this mystic creature bolts, the line parts and time is frozen again. Prostate and paralyzed, you stand alone. In shock, it seems a lifetime has passed in that encounter, that translucent ghost gone before you can comprehend. Your heart throbbing so loud you can’t hear river or wind, time is frozen, BREATHE!!
There is so much water out in the Forks region its mind numbing to contemplate. With so many rivers it would take me years to write about them all. I wrote about only a couple of them to peak your interest, there is still a ton of other rivers that are just as spectacular with amazing fish. If you have never been to the Forks region you owe it to yourself to come see with your own eyes what it’s like out there. My words (try as I might) cannot convey what it’s like out on the coast; it’s like going back in time, a place where time can slow down. In this ever growing, crazy fast paced world we tend to forget about the little things, the sound of the river, Dippers scurrying around the banks, the cry of the eagle, or the transparent fins of chrome bright Steelhead…BREATHE…
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| The Hoh River |
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HOH RIVER
The Hoh River, ever changing from its glacial origins, meanders along this way and that across its wide valley. Home to a heavenly strain of Steelhead that reach upwards to thirty five pounds or more, you never know when Ike is going to slam your fly. With its glacial tint and massive logjams every turn offers a new chance with the chrome demon that devours my soul. The upper river (Park to Oxbow) is a beautiful stretch with braided channels and plenty of gravel bars to swing a fly. With two canyon sections it offers some challenging rowing, especially at Oxbow, great fun!! From oxbow down has the best fly water, every turn has amazing water that just begs to be fished with a fly. An easier float to row but still has plenty of hazards!
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| The Sol Duc River |
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SOL DUC RIVER
Sol Duc River is just the opposite of the Hoh, derived of rain from the north slopes facing the Strait of Juan de Fuca and a basalt corridor, the river has been the same for eons. With these caricatures the Sol Duc fishes longer and clears faster than most rivers on the O.P. With a faster narrower gradient that creates narrow shoots, treacherous drops and rapids the Sol Duc is not for the average rower. Aside from the technical rowing this has to be one of my favorite rivers ever. The Steelhead from the Sol Duc tends to run a little larger with fish caught well over twenty pounds and some reaching thirty plus!! With a rapid pool rapid pool configuration the runs tend to be smaller and less swing water, but there is some absolutely amazing water to swing a fly through. With truly amazing Steelhead to catch!!
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| A large rock garden on the Calawah River |
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BOGACHIEL RIVER
The Bobachiel River is a great river with plenty of water to swing a fly through. With a slower gradient than the Sol Duc, it is easier to row but like any river it has its own hazards. Mostly known for its hatchery run in Dec – Jan, it still has a robust native run from Feb – April. The main tributary is the Calawah River with a healthy run of natives as well, but is known as one of the most technical rivers to row in the state. NO BEGINNERS HERE!!! Both the Bogachiel and Calawah rivers have some great walk-in areas to fish especially on their upper ends.
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